Seiko “Pogue” 6139-6002

October 7, 2020

Well what can I say… I had a dream, an idea. Could I build my own Seiko “Pogue”?

As much as I admire the history of the Seiko Pogue a genuine 6139-6005 is just out of reach for me as they now command a high price even for some beaten up versions. To me its the look I like, Gold dial on a Pepsi bezel in a stainless steel case is so striking and contrasting. It works and is Seiko at its best in the era I am most fond of, the 1970s.

I had a “spare” Seiko 6139A movement in my spares, I had an engine. All I needed was everything else, how hard can that be?

I think I under estimated just how many parts I would need but I reached out to a few friends & contacts of mine and put the feelers out there. Within a day a good friend came to my rescue and offered to give me a case, caseback, movement ring, gaskets, a genuine crown and a hard to find spring that holds the inner bezel in place. A massive thanks to Mr Simon Wilkinson for his generosity.

With these parts sourced and a few other internal parts got hold of all I then needed was the external and in many ways the most important pieces, the bezel, dial, hands and inner rotating bezel.

Finding originals would be too difficult and pricy so I was put in contact with an eBay seller called Seikosis who sold aftermarket parts that are of good quality and as close to the originals as you could get. Now I know there is a big argument about non genuine parts, authenticity etc and I understand this but my decision was made so I ordered all the parts plus a bracelet.

Here are some pictures of these parts.

Here is the bezel next to a genuine but used bezel. The aftermarket being on the left. The light suggests its a lighter blue but this is false as the colour match is spot on.

Here is a Sternkruez crystal that you can use on these that fit nicely. (Ironically I have not used this one as I was given one by Seikosis)

So before I put it all together I completely refinished the case. This was over 3 days in my spare time. I was able to get it as good as I could to original factory condition.

So now it was time to put it all together. I filmed all of this for my YouTube channel and there will be a link to that video at the bottom of this blog post.

The build went really well, I do love the 6139 movement, its iconic for its time, one of the first automatic chronograph movements in the world and the fist using a column wheel and vertical clutch. Typical Seiko it serves a function very well. Brilliantly engineered for simplicity and durability. Not the prettiest but function over form and under a caseback only the watchmaker can admire it…

I had the usual issue for me which is lining up the chrono hands, they are a real pain on these but after 4-5 attempts I got them as good as I could.

So here is the finished result, I think its nothing more than sensational. I have given this my best work by far to make it really nice. It took a full week to restore this one.

Here is the video on my channel. It is a long video but I take you through every step of this restoration.

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